Charming things come in small packages...

Dezeen Watch Store has commissioned a series of watch sculptures from Dominic Wilcox (http://www.dominicwilcox.com/) entitled Moments in Time. Taking Smiths / Ingersoll pocket watches and Sekonda watches as his base, he has created miniature scenes that are enacted on the face of each watch, using the hands to great kinetic effect. The piece is contemporary, reflecting recent troubles, such as the rioting in London over the summer: In one, called London Looter, a hooded youth on the second hand carries away an LCD TV while a riot policeman looks on passively. “I had to walk across Mare Street in Hackney to get home during the riots. I remember seeing a boy carrying an LCD TV down a back street. I noticed how the police seemed unsure how to react, holding their circular shields while the boy held a rectangular TV.”

At once charming and touching, while exhibiting a wicked sense of humour, the pieces can be seen at the Dezeen Design Space on Rivington St, which also houses a decent selection of watches. While purists may sneer, the Dezeen Watch Store actually stocks some of the more interesting quartz "designer watch" designs, such as Uniform Wares, Ziiro and Denis Guidone...

Just because...

A spot of fun. The design-your-own watch generator from your friendly, neighbourhood #watchnerd. Ideal for any new / aspiring watch brand...

Just click the picture, or here, to give it a whirl...

The future of watches?

The Casio CA53W-1 (C) Casio

Many of you will no doubt recall the Casio and Pulsar databank watches from the 1980s. These "wrist computers" were large, bulky, plastic gadgets that stored (up to) 30 phone numbers, completed basic calculations and included multiple time zones, chronos, countdowns and associated alarms. In fact, everything the business (wo)man of the Eighties needed, but couldn't fit into his (or her) briefcase, because all the available space had been taken up by his (or her) mobile 'phone and the planet-sized battery required to power it. Since then, not much has changed: watches are still largely for telling the time and 'phones are still the size of Belgium. Ish. 

However, the dream of wearable tech just won't die. We may not yet be the 'gargoyles' that Neal Stephenson envisaged in Snow Crash, but we're not far off it, with an increasing number of applications using augmented reality to various degrees, and many people seemingly plugged into their 'phones almost permanently. The only difference being that computer power and technology has largely been aimed at mobile (smart) 'phones, and not at watches. Until recently, that is, when Kickstarter and other micro-VC 'sites began to be inundated with ideas to use the iPod Nano as a watch. Simply fashion a suitable holder, attach a strap, et voilà. A 'watch' that also plays music, video and even tells the time. 

The Meta Watch (TM) Fossil Watches

But, according to at least one set of developers, the technology-based opportunities of the wristwatch do not end there. Fossil Watches and Texas Instruments would like to use the wristwatch as an additional screen for your 'phone. A mini version of it, that's attached via Bluetooth and can run apps hosted on your smartphone. They call it the 'Meta Watch'. And it may just be the future of wristwatches... I must admit that I'm not entirely sure whether the "meta" in Meta Watch refers to the device being somehow beyond normal watches, or merely some uber-self referential item (after all, the current concept device is entirely referential - if only to the host 'phone). Either way, it's certainly a clever idea, and one that seems to be rapidly growing in followers. The device is certainly very, very interesting. 

Ana-digi version

In effect, it's simply a device that removes the need to take your 'phone out of your jacket pocket / bag / jeans. Available in a 96x96 LCD display, or analogue-digital version (see right), the Meta Watch is quite nicely designed, and not a thousand miles away from existing models on the High Street. I don't think it'll be winning any awards for aesthetics, and it's a shame that there's no touch screen, but this is the first commercially available version. Applications running on your (Android) 'phone can be piped via Bluetooth to the Meta Watch, displaying snippets of information, such as unread emails, messages, missed calls, etc. It'll be brilliant for business meetings, where the surreptitious use of one's BlackBerry is often frowned upon. No more pulling out the BB to see whether anything interesting has happened - instead, just casually glance at your wrist, notice that there's a message waiting, and then dive into that jacket pocket to read it. With the approach that TI are taking (i.e. throwing this open to developers), you just know that there's a killer app out there. Something so devastatingly simple that it'll make this device indispensable. But is this the future of watches? No. I do not believe it is, as I believe that timekeeping is secondary to the concept. This may be the next iteration of wearable tech, but I can't see it beating out the wristwatch just yet... 

the #watchnerd

Hands on with Bremont's P-51 watch

Fragile but Agile on the Flightline, Duxford 2011

You may remember that I penned a quick overview of this watch for The Prodigal Guide when it was announced last year. This is an update to that piece, now that the final production version has been released and is finally available for viewing. But before I go into the details, perhaps a quick recap: the P-51 watch is a Limited Edition Bremont (251 pieces) that's based on a very famous, and until recently presumed lost, 'plane called Fragile but Agile ("FBA"). FBA was rebuilt by Planes of Fame by the Hintons over the past few years, and has been flying as part of the Horsemen. It's a well-decorated 'plane, having flown in WW2 and the Bremont watch is made with original parts from this 1944 Mustang aircraft (P-51K-10 - serial number 44- 12016). 

FBA's instrument panel and distinctive nose

"FBA rolled off the North American Aviation assembly line in Dallas, Texas, on 18 December 1944 and was then loaded on a ship on the 15th January 1945 for an assignment in the Far East. It was to take part in the American campaign to retake the Philippine Islands from the Japanese. On arrival in the Pacific Theatre of Operations, the aircraft was assigned to the 342nd Fighter Squadron of the 348th Fighter Group, which then was stationed at the San Marcelino airbase, just north of Manila Bay. Lt. Bert Lee Jr. was assigned to fly the aircraft. Lt. Lee was credited with two confirmed victories during the war, which accounts for the two Japanese flags painted below his name on the plane – one was a Japanese A6M “Zero” fighter near Manila and the other a twin-engine "Betty" bomber. A lot of his missions in the P51 were ground support, in what was then Indochina. Lee and his Mustang both survived the war. Following its time in the US Air Force, FBA then spent time serving with both the Swedish and Israeli military before being overhauled and operated for many years by The Fighter Collection, based at Duxford in the UK. Recently, the Mustang was again treated to a major overhaul by Steve Hinton‟s Fighter Rebuilders at Chino, California having been acquired by the Friedkin Family‟s Comanche Fighter Collection."

Bremont's P-51 Chronograph (Limited Edition of 251)

I must admit to being not only a #watchnerd but also a bit of a 'plane dweeb, so this watch is pretty much the nexus for me. Nick and Giles English have certainly been busy making this watch. The attention to detail is incredible. Take a look at the final dial and see how many elements of the P-51 you can find: notice the hands, echoing the 8-day clock. Then look a little bit closer - the chronograph seconds hand has two distinctive elements: the markings are taken from FBA's tail, while the arrow-headed back of the hand is from the clock. The lume on each of the numerals is just about identical to the honeyed colour of the instruments in the cockpit. The little constant seconds is similar to the EP120 watch, and ticks over nicely against the dark background of the dial. A subtle grey has been used on the UTC (or GMT) hand, as well as on the UTC numerals. Lumed and raised "pips" highlight the dial at five minute intervals. It's a very * harmonious* dial, and not at all fussy.

The Star is replicated on the Roto-Clik bezel crown

The 43mm case will be familiar to all those who have seen the range: it's very similar to the existing ALT1-P and ALT1-Z range of watches, combining the three-part Trip-Tick elements, with those classically curved lugs, and the PVD'd barrel that has become Bremont's trademark. The star-emblazoned crown at eight o'clock is to operate the internal bezel. Previously only available on the non-chronograph models, the Roto-Clik bezel is incredibly smooth. When i spoke to Peter Roberts (Bremont's Technical Director) last week, we were discussing the Roto-Clik on the Martin-Baker watch. Peter's original idea had been to create a mechanism that reminded the user of a Leica: that perfect, soft 'click' as you turn the aperture control. I already own an MB2 watch, and am therefore quite used to the feel of the bezel, but this new version takes the MkI Roto-Clik to a new level. It's nigh on perfect, and may well become a defining piece of Bremont design.

The distinctive nose of FBA can be seen on the rotor

Then there's the caseback: a sapphire window onto the Bremont-modified movement onto the rotor. The movement is a well-made and decorated automatic 7754, but it's the rotor that will have people talking. Hand-made from the aluminium skin of FBA's tail section (see below), the rotor perfectly captures the spirit of the 'plane: it spins and glints in the sun, while turning around that distinctive blue nose. When Giles English was unhappy with the original prototypes, he took to wearing the P-51 reversed - with only the caseback showing. Now I've spent time with the final version, I can see why! At £7,450, it's not a cheap piece, and many will surely baulk at paying over $10k for a watch that doesn't even have an in-house movement. But where else can you find something like this?

I've waxed lyrical about this watch since I saw it yesterday; something that I didn't think I would. To be honest, while I absolutely "got" the EP120, I wasn't sure how I'd react to this big, brash Mustang-inspired piece. But I do get it. I absolutely get it. I hope it will appeal to watchnerds, 'plane dweebs and all in between. It's a very wearable, approachable piece, quite reserved on the wrist, but at the same time containing a link to the past that is very un-2011. It's slightly anachronistic, while also having modern touches such as the scratch-resistent coated steel and PVD sections, and nine layers of anti-reflective coating on the glass. And it's very, very clever: I defy you to be impressed with the internal bezel. I hope it makes you smile.

the #watchnerd

Bremont's P-51 will be available in October; interested parties can place a deposit securing one of the 251 pieces with ATG Vintage Watches or other Authorised Dealers. More information can be found in the official Bremont Press Release here.

FBA fuselage markings

FBA's distinctive tail

An honest watch...

A 17 Jewel Baylor Diver with AS movement

Baylor was the in-house watch brand of the US jewellery giant Zales, and sold watches from the 60s through to the demise of Zales watch business in the 90s. As with many "private label" businesses, the watches were largely manufactured by Swiss companies, badged with the Baylor label (and later logo) and sold in the US. Perhaps the most famous watch company to be associated with Baylor was Heuer, although I believe there may also have been dalliances with Squale by the looks of a recent watch on eBay. Many of the movements appear to be manufactured by AS (Anton Schild) - itself a company with enviable horological roots: AS worked with Harwood to produce the first self-winding movements (although the credit was taken by Fortis who finished the movements) and even supplied movements to Blancpain for their Fifty Fathoms watches.

The crown and bezel, showing patina

The nice thing about these watches is their honesty. There's a phrase that keeps popping up on Watch Forums - wabi sabi* - that appears to have become the standard flipper's shorthand for "worn" when they really mean "knocked around and ground into the dirt, crystal-side down". Most of my watches are, indeed, used. Heavily so. They aren't nannied or pampered, these are honest pieces that have seen long and sustained use over their lives, often showing sun-damage, faded bezels or dials and that rich patina** that only true use can give. The example here shows exactly that  - a fair degree of brassing on the case, with faded numerals on the friction bezel. I know a lot of you will be upset by the friction bezel - after all, we all know the importance of a uni-directional dive timer. But many watches from this era (and earlier) were without the ratcheted bezels we now take for granted. Plus, to be honest, they are far cheaper to manufacture.

Water resistant to 600 feet, and ticking strongly, this watch has obviously been subjected to a not insignificant degree of abuse. But, for me at least, that's what makes these things to endearing. The heavily domed plexi is far more engaging than a flat sapphire crystal, and the skin diver / man in trunks on the caseback is charmingly rendered. The dial shows some signs of ageing, but the tritium markers are in good shape, and are nicely surrounded with a bright orange marker at the cardinal points. As with many of these divers, there's a date, although no day. Unlike modern movements, there's no quickset, either. Oh, and it's a manual wind.

It's not going to win any beauty prizes, and there are more desirable models out there, but for me, this is what collecting should be about. Honesty. 

the #watchnerd

Click for full size

Click for full size

The famous Zen garden of Ryōan-ji

*literally (from Wikipedia) "...a comprehensive Japanese world view or aesthetic centered on the acceptance of transience. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is "imperfect, impermanent and incomplete". It is a concept derived from the Buddhist assertion of the Three marks of existence (三法印 sanbōin), specifically impermanence (無常 mujō). Characteristics of the wabi-sabi aesthetic include asymmetry, asperity (roughness or irregularity), simplicity, economy, austerity, modesty, intimacy and appreciation of the ingenuous integrity of natural objects and processes." Unfortunately, this phrase has been misappropriated by a proportion of the watch "collecting" public and is now routinely misused. For the real meaning of wabi sabi, I suggest a trip to Ryōan-ji to contemplate the matter further...

**here we go again. Patina is another misused term, largely, it seems, by the Rolex fraternity. I may be wrong, but I believe there is a significant difference between the effects of ageing (as seen on cases, bezels or crowns) and the effects of a poorly-made dial. But I'm probably wrong, as they seem to command ludicrous amounts of money for what amounts to a mistake in the manufacture.

Ulysse Nardin at Kronometry 1999

Alexander the Great tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin is a watch manufacturer steeped in history; Kronometry 1999, a modern brand that showcases the best in horology. Together, last Thursday, they presented some of the most complicated and astounding watches seen in London this year. Among them, a platinum Moonstruck, the Trilogy of Time set (below), the three-handed Classico, the remarkable Freak Diavolo and the astounding (and winner of world's longest watch name) Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater (see closeup of the tourbillon movement opposite). The event, hosted in the London outpost of Walter Ronchetti's empire, is almost Bond villain-esque, looking like it was designed by the late Sir Ken Adam, which seems apt, when it's displaying such brands as Hublot, DeWitt, Harry Winston and, of course, Ulysse Nardin.

Classico

Nardin was incorporated in 1846 and has 165 years of history behind it, although it's probably the last 25 years or so under Rolf Schnyder's ownership that have seen some of the most innovative designs. It was these designs that were so prominently, and beautifully, displayed on Thursday night, and so charmingly shown by both Walter and the London K1999 Manager, Liam. So. To begin. A little bit about the Classico. This 40mm chronometer was announced a couple of years ago, and has applied markers in rose gold, a silverized starburst dial and a stunning blue seconds hand. Taking cues from (perhaps) Vacheron, this obviously harks back to the wristwatches of yesteryear, and contains UN's in-house automatic Calibre wound by a 22 ct gold rotor, visible through the exhibition back. This style of watch is very much in vogue at the present time, and the Classico will, I'm sure, hold it's own against many of the others in the market. 

The Trilogy of Time

Next up was the Trilogy of Time, a set of three watches that are so complicated, they come with a book and CD to explain how to use them correctly. Even setting these watches requires a great deal of thought and at least a pretty good idea of the phase of the moon! It's a good job that anyone who purchases this set is flown to Le Locle to be shown the watches by the UN staff. But to see them working, displaying the positions of the sun, moon, tides, equation of time and other celestial positions is incredible. The Astrolabium (left), Tellurium (right) and Planetarium (centre) are watches that were first conceived back in 1983. Each has its own speciality and abilities but all three are beautifully finished, with the most exquisite care taken on both the front and back of each watch. In fact, the rotors on these pieces really have to be seen to be believed (see photo below). As another example of the supreme craftsmanship of these watches, take a look at the cloisonné enamel globe on the centre dial of the Tellurium. Of the Trilogy, I think the multi-handed Astrolabium just shaves it for me, although, of course, I'd be happy to take any one of the three! 

Alexander the Great Minute Repeater

The star of the show was the Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater in rose gold (at left). Following on from the success of the previous Ulysse Nardin repeaters (e.g. the Ghengis Khan and Circus pieces), this model shows a battle scene, involving Alexander the Great (at right, in gold, white gold and red enamel highlights). As the minute repeater is activated, each of the accompanying characters (or jaquemarts as they are known in horological / campanological circles) plays a role in striking the time. It really is quite lovely to watch and I couldn't help but smile when the tiny automatons chime the minutes quarters and hours. The tourbillon is visible through the ground black diamond dial, which can appear grey, black or anything in between, depending on the angle of view. The black diamond is, I assume, a by product from UN's incredibly successful venture into the production of synthetic diamond and diamond-like materials (check out this Royal Blue sapphire movement). Limited to fifty pieces in rose gold (as shown) and a further fifty pieces in white gold, it really is quite extraordinary. There's a closer view of the manual wind UN-78 movement below.

Freak Diavolo

However, for me, the night was special for another reason: the Freak Diavolo was also on show. I'm aware that this watch has some fervent admirers and many who just don't like it at all. I've been a convert for some time now, and this version (or is it a completely new model?) appears to be the best so far. With its ceramic bezel and crownless design, this Freak adds a flying tourbillon into the mix. The silicium escapement never ceases to amaze me, while the tourbillon adds yet another layer of complexity to this watch. I find the design to be almost industrial in nature, while winding the watch remains a very visceral experience. Not only can you watch the huge mainspring through the window in the caseback, but you can also feel the tension building. There's just one problem: the Diavolo is just short of one hundred thousand pounds, and therefore a little out of reach at the moment. 


Many thanks again to Walter, Liam and all at K1999 for the opportunity to see these pieces, and for Ulysse Nardin for allowing us to spend so much time with their Alexander the Great. K1999 can be found at 106 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DN. Further photos of the evening are available in the gallery here.


Click on any of these photos for larger images:

Alexander the Great UN-78

Tellurium rotor detail

  

A tribute to the Tributes

The JLC Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 is a paradox. At under 30mm wide and a mere 8mm thick (or is that thin?) this modern re-edition of the classic polo watch should be too small for modern tastes. Equally, the Art Deco looks of the guilloché dial and horizintal lines on the surrounding case do not immediately mark it as a sports watch - but this is one of the first, true sports watches, designed back in 1931 by LeCoultre in response to a request to make a watch that would be protected from shocks / knocks on the polo field. The simple solution - a reversible case - also had a secondary function, providing a large surface for personal engravings or other patterns.

The history of the Reverso is long and winding. Over the past eighty years, this watch has graced the wrists of men and women, growing and shrinking in size as the decades change. Recent models have (in my opinion) pushed the boundaries of taste somewhat, taking these Art Deco lines to a slightly bloated conclusion, but this "tribute" to the original 1931 version returns the Reverso to its near-original specs (the Ultra Thin can be seen at right, ref Q2788520).

Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931

Powered by the 3mm high JLC Calibre 822 (a manual wind, hand-decorated movement beating at a refined 21,600 bph) the ultra-thin Ultra Thin model has managed to reduce the case thickness of the original version by a couple of millimetres, allowing the watch to almost float above the wrist. It's a fine achievement, which has culminated in the incredibly refined Tribute model (ref Q2788570). This version relegates the JLC logo to the caseback, instead proudly displaying its Reverso credentials against a black background (at left, top).

From a personal perspective, I think I'd find it very hard to choose between the two models shown. The Tribute to 1931 would be perfect for evening wear, while the Ultra Thin, with those beautifully blued steel hands probably goes better with a business / lounge suit. Either way, it's remarkable how well the watch sits on the wrist, despite it's almost feminine dimensions - at 27.5 x 46mm, it would probably be the slimmest watch I've worn. Reversed, JLC have left an admirable amount of space for personal engraving that really cries out for an inscription (or perhaps an enamelled painting?), although I cannot think what I would have inscribed. Suggestions on a postcard the the usual address please!

#the Watchnerd

[Models shown courtesy of Time2 at Selfridges and are in the region of £5,600]